ZMR250 ESCs and Motors
Time to install the ZMR250 ESCs and Motors on the V2 Frame. I decided to wait on installing the arms and bottom plate until after the ESCs are soldered. This way the frame posts wouldn’t be in my way when soldering which was nice. Hindsight it would have been easier to install the arms and bottom plate without the ESC wires in the way but it was doable. So if you think you can solder the ESCs with the posts installed I would recommend installing the arms and bottom plate.
Installing ESCs ZMR250
- Cut board side wires of the Littlebee 20A ESC to length. Since I didn’t install my arms I just sat one underneath the PDB to size it up. You can also place the ESCs inside the frame as well but I just choice to place on arms. I wanted to have room to do my soldering on the motor side so I placed the ESC as close as I could to the frame and then cut the wires. I cut the pin connector off the small white and black wire.
- Soldering the ESCs- Next I tinned the PDB side wires of all the ESCs. NOTE: The small black wire will be soldered with the negative lead, I spun the two together and tinned as one. I already tinned the PDB in Part 1 so I’m ready to solder. I started with the white wire to signal on the PDB. Next I did the positive and then the negative.
- After soldering the ESCs to the PDB I fastened the front and rear posts (center posts I did after Part 2). NOTE: I used blue thread lock on the posts. Next I installed the arms and bottom plate. I attached one arm at a time and just got the nuts started. Tighten after you’ve got all arms on. I didn’t use thread lock here because the nuts are lock nuts.
- Placing the ESCs- I cut the provided double sided adhesive about the same size as the ESC. I then stuck it to the bottom of the ESC and placed it where I wanted it on the arm. Next I used two zip ties on each ESC to hold securely to the arm. At this point I cut the motor side ESC wires at about an inch which would leave me about the same length coming from the motor so that soldering would be easier.
- I purchased ¾ heat thrink tubes from home depot to cover the ESCs. It slides over the arms and ESCs nicely. I cut it to length just behind the soldering point to the motor. Using a heat gun I shrunk the tubes.
Installing Motors ZMR250
- The kit comes with 2 CW and 2 CCW Dragonfly MC1806 2300KV motors. Install top adapters. NOTE: This kit comes with a small brass bushing without this the provided screws will go too far into the motor and can cause a short and/or other damage. Also blue thread lock is used.
- Installing motors to arms- Cut the motor wires down to a couple inches just to make handling easier. Use provided screws to fasten motors to arms. I installed CW and CCW motor on each designated arm. Cut motor wires to length according to your ESC wires. Before soldering place heat shrink on one side of the wires. Be careful not to get the solder iron too close to the heat shrink or you won’t be able to slide it over the solder. This happened to me on one and I had to resolder with new heat shrink. I’m thinking if I do another build placing the ESCs in the frame would be easier to solder.
- Soldering motors to ESCs- The CW motors I soldered the wires in order. The CCW wires I switched the two outside wires and soldered. Heat Shrink wires.
NOTE:I don’t have a servo to test rotation at this point so I am hoping this configuration works out. If I have to change any wires after testing I will post the correct wiring. -See edit below******EDIT: After testing with Cleanflight my motor rotations were all opposite. CW were CCW and vice versa. See my post Reversing Motor Rotation Bl Heli to see how I reversed the rotations. Or if you have yet to solder just do the opposite of what I did(switch wires on CW instead of CCW).
Continue to Part 4 – FPV Camera